Oud is one of the most popular fragrances in the Middle East, but it has now gained popularity globally. Its intense, musky fragrance is familiar to many, yet only a few have access to real oud. It has become one of the most revered and sought-after substances in the fragrance world. Hence, it was dubbed “liquid gold.”
Oud is typically used as a base note in perfumes and attars, releasing that deep, woody, musky scent when it matures on the skin. Despite its popularity, few know where oud comes from and what makes it so special to perfumers. Oud is formulated with great craftsmanship and steeped in tradition. So, whether you’re taking in the musky scent of oud Morocco or the floral warmth of an Afghan oud, know that each scent has a botanical history behind it.
Origin of oud
Oud is a natural resin obtained from the heartwood of the agarwood tree. This tree, also called aquaria, is native to Southeast Asia, in the rainforests of Indonesia, Thailand, and Bangladesh. The use of oud dates back to 1400 BC, and even then, it signified luxury and wealth.
As trade routes grew, oud was exported to places like Japan and China, where it found various uses.
Since then, it has been used for spiritual and religious purposes. Muslim prophets have been known to use the smoke of agarwood trees to cleanse themselves, oud oil is used to signify hospitality, and it is said to have soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.
Oud has thus grown in popularity over the centuries, its price has skyrocketed, and it continues to be a mark of status and opulence.
What makes oud sought after?
Oud has an interesting and specific creation story. The species of agarwood that produces oud is known as Aquilaria malaccensis. For oud to be extracted, the aquilaria tree has to be infected with a specific parasitic mold called Phialophora parasitica.
In response to this infection, the aquilaria secretes a dark, fragrant resin that stains the heartwood an amber color. This resin hardens and can be extracted using the steam distillation method. The result is a deeply fragrant resinous substance called oud, which is then processed to craft fragrance variants like sweet oud attar or Turkish oud.
The agarwood tree can sustain this infection and resin production process for decades. The older trees are the most sought-after because they have a deeper and more complex resin structure, resulting in better-quality oud.
However, only 2% of agarwood trees will naturally get infected and produce this resin globally. This rarity makes aquilaria one of the most expensive timber, with a kilogram going for at least $100,000, and oud one of the most expensive substances, an ounce of it even more costly than gold.
What does oud smell like?
The smell of oud has been described as deep, nuanced, smoky, and animalic. It smells like none other and is typically considered not for everyone. As mentioned earlier, the age of the agarwood tree is mainly responsible for the scent profile and depth of the oud it produces. Consequently, oud produced from different trees may not smell exactly alike. Some have a sweeter or nuttier smell; others are more animalistic, pungent, and balsamic. When oud dries down, it typically releases a deeper, more intense note.
Oud’s scent profile is as varied as it is complex. Oud Morocco, for example, has notes of smoky heartwood and resin. Like sweet oud attar, other variants are warm and intense with sweet, fruity notes.
How sustainable is oud production?
In the quest for oud, trees are now treated with a microbial substance thought to provoke resin production. Others may wound the tree to provoke tylosis and extract the oud. Due to the overexploitation of aquilaria, it has become a protected species; thus, many perfumers have turned to synthetic oud obtained from artificial inoculation of the logs. However, this resin lacks the complexity and depth obtained from a naturally occurring one.
Conclusion
It is no wonder oud has been a revered substance in history. Its extraction process is unique, and its smell is unlike any other. Oud is a fragrance with a story, giving each user a deep connection with nature. As global appreciation for it increases, perfumers try to balance high-quality oud with sustainability in their practice.
