The world of embroidery is filled with technical terms and industry-specific language. From underlay stitches and satin fills to merrow borders and hook-and-loop patches, understanding these words can make a huge difference when communicating with digitizers, embroiderers, or clients.
Whether you’re a small business owner ordering custom logo patches, a digitizer learning new techniques, or an embroidery enthusiast curious about the process, this Glossary of Digitizing and Patches Embroidery provides simple, practical definitions of all essential terms used in modern embroidery.
This guide is written with clarity and real-world examples, helping both beginners and professionals master the vocabulary that powers today’s digital embroidery and custom patch industry.
A–C: Foundational Embroidery & Digitizing Terms
Appliqué
A technique where a fabric piece is sewn onto a base fabric and then stitched around the edges. Common in jacket backs and decorative patches.
Artwork
The original design (vector or raster) that will be converted into an embroidery file. High-quality artwork ensures cleaner stitch results.
Backing
The material placed under the fabric during embroidery to stabilize stitches and prevent puckering.
Types include tear-away, cut-away, and wash-away backings.
Bean Stitch
A stitch type that runs back and forth over the same line multiple times for thicker outlines or bold detail.
Bobbin Thread
The bottom thread used in embroidery machines, typically thinner than the top thread, providing balance and tension.
Cap Frame
A specialized hoop attachment used for embroidering on curved surfaces such as caps and hats.
Chenille
A looped, carpet-like embroidery style often seen on varsity jackets. Requires special digitizing for textured, raised surfaces.
Color Change
The programmed switch from one thread color to another during the embroidery sequence.
D–F: Core Digitizing Terminology
Digitizing
The process of converting artwork into a machine-readable embroidery file. It determines stitch type, path, direction, and density.
This is the foundation of every embroidery project.
Density
Refers to how close stitches are to each other. High density creates solid coverage but can cause stiffness or thread breaks if overused.
DST File
A Tajima machine format used widely across the U.S. and internationally. It’s one of the most accepted file types for commercial embroidery.
Embroidery File Format
The final output format for your design, such as .DST, .PES, .EXP, or .JEF, depending on your machine type.
Fill Stitch
Also called Tatami Stitch, it covers large design areas with a repeated zigzag pattern. Used for backgrounds, logos, and flags.
Frame (Hoop)
A circular or rectangular clamp that holds fabric tightly during embroidery. Proper hooping ensures accurate stitching.
G–I: General Embroidery and Patch Concepts
Gradient Embroidery
A technique that blends thread colors or stitch directions to create shading or depth, often used in artistic designs.
Hook-and-Loop Patch
A patch with a Velcro-style backing, allowing easy attachment and removal—common for military, police, and tactical uniforms.
Hooping
The process of securing the fabric and stabilizer in a hoop to prevent movement while stitching. Correct hooping is crucial for alignment.
Iron-On Patch
A patch with a heat-activated adhesive on the back, allowing attachment with an iron or heat press. Popular for retail patches and DIY repairs.
Interlock Stitch
A stitch sequence that overlaps previous stitches slightly to prevent gaps, useful in curved shapes or dense designs.
J–L: Machine Formats and Stitch Types
JEF File
A Janome embroidery machine format used in mid-range domestic and semi-professional machines.
Jump Stitch
A movement of the needle between non-contiguous design areas without stitching. Often trimmed manually or by the machine.
Lettering
Text elements in embroidery designs. Digitizers must consider font thickness, minimum letter height, and stitch type for readability.
Logo Digitizing
The process of turning a company logo into a stitch file suitable for uniforms, caps, or promotional items. Accuracy in proportion and detail is vital.
Lock Stitch
Tiny stitches made at the end of a section to secure threads and prevent unraveling.
M–O: Patch Styles and Embroidery Techniques
Merrow Border
A traditional thread edge used on embroidered patches. It provides a thick, rounded finish that prevents fraying and gives a classic look.
Monogram
Personalized initials embroidered with decorative fonts. Common on towels, robes, and uniforms.
Machine Embroidery
The use of computerized machines to automatically stitch digitized designs onto fabric.
Needle Break
A common issue caused by poor hooping, thick fabrics, or incorrect digitizing (too dense stitch areas).
Object-Based Digitizing
A modern digitizing technique where designs are edited by object (shape or element), not by individual stitches—allowing easier resizing.
P–R: Patch Finishing and Stitch Control
Patch Embroidery
A separate embroidered piece created on twill, felt, or polyester, later cut and attached to garments or accessories.
Puff Embroidery (3D Puff)
A style of embroidery that uses foam under the top stitches to create a raised, 3D texture—common on hats and jackets.
Placement Line
In appliqué or patch production, a guide line that shows where to place fabric before the machine stitches over it.
Pull Compensation
Adjustments made during digitizing to counteract fabric stretch or thread tension, ensuring shapes and lettering stay accurate.
Registration
The alignment of different stitch sections or colors within the same design. Poor registration results in misaligned patterns.
Run Stitch
A simple stitch type used for outlines, fine details, and underlays. It runs continuously in a straight or curved path.
S–U: Specialized Techniques and Software Terms
Satin Stitch
A smooth, glossy stitch ideal for borders, small text, and decorative outlines. It provides shine and elegance.
Sequins Embroidery
A specialized technique that adds decorative sequins using a dedicated embroidery head or attachment.
Shrinkage Compensation
Digitizing adjustment to ensure final stitch sizes remain correct after washing or heat pressing.
Split Stitch
Overlapping short stitches used to create textured lines—popular in artistic or vintage-style embroidery.
Stabilizer
Another term for backing—a support layer placed under fabric to prevent stretching or shifting during embroidery.
Stitch Count
The total number of stitches in an embroidery file. Pricing and production time often depend on this count.
Tatami Fill
A patterned fill stitch used to cover large areas evenly. It gives a woven appearance and prevents puckering.
Thread Break
Occurs when the upper thread snaps during embroidery, often due to tight tension or dense stitching.
Trim Command
An instruction in the file that tells the machine to cut the thread automatically before moving to a new section.
Underlay
A foundational stitch layer beneath visible stitches, improving coverage, stability, and durability.
Underlay Types
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Center-walk: Straight stitches under satin borders.
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Zigzag underlay: For large fills and curved shapes.
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Tatami underlay: For dense fill stitch areas.
V–Z: Production & Technical Vocabulary
Vector File
A digital art file (AI, EPS, SVG, PDF) made of scalable paths, ideal for digitizing because it maintains clean edges and resolution.
Velcro Patch
A patch that attaches with hook-and-loop fasteners. Popular for uniforms, military patches, and sports gear.
Vinyl Patch
A patch style using synthetic vinyl instead of fabric for a glossy, waterproof surface.
Walk Stitch
A light, continuous stitch path used in underlays or fine outlines. Commonly used for running stitch effects.
Wilcom
An industry-leading embroidery digitizing software used by professionals worldwide.
Zigzag Stitch
A decorative or structural stitch that moves side-to-side, used for appliqué or reinforcing borders.
Bonus Section: Patch Backing Types (U.S. Standards)
| Backing Type | Description | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Iron-On Backing | Heat-activated adhesive layer. | Retail patches, DIY clothing. |
| Sew-On Backing | No adhesive—stitched directly to garments. | Jackets, uniforms, denim. |
| Hook-and-Loop (Velcro) | Detachable fastening system. | Tactical gear, caps, badges. |
| Adhesive / Peel-and-Stick | Temporary backing with sticker surface. | Events, fashion trials. |
| Plastic Backing | Adds stiffness and durability to embroidered patches. | Military or police patches. |
Pro Tips for Understanding Embroidery & Digitizing Terminology
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Start with the Fabric: The type of fabric determines how most other parameters—density, underlay, needle type—are set.
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Simplify Your Artwork: Small details or gradients may not translate well into stitches; simplify your logo before digitizing.
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Always Request a Sew-Out: Testing helps verify that the design runs smoothly on your chosen fabric.
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Keep a Glossary Handy: Many embroidery platforms use slightly different names for the same stitch type; knowing them helps avoid confusion.
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Communicate Clearly with Your Digitizer: Share details about thread type, size, placement, and intended use to ensure accurate digitizing.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
1. What is the difference between embroidery and embroidery digitizing?
Embroidery is the physical stitching process, while digitizing is the digital design conversion step that makes embroidery possible.
2. Can I use one digitized file for different patch types?
Usually yes, but adjustments may be needed for fabric thickness or backing type to prevent distortion.
3. What is the ideal stitch count for a 3-inch patch?
Typically between 8,000 and 12,000 stitches, depending on detail and fill density.
4. What file format should I request from my digitizer?
For U.S. embroidery machines, .DST is the most universal format, though .PES and .EXP are also common.
5. Why are merrow borders popular for patches?
They create a clean, professional edge that prevents fraying and adds durability.
Conclusion
Understanding embroidery terms gives you control and confidence in every project. Whether you’re digitizing a company logo, creating custom iron-on patches, or managing large-scale production, knowing the language of stitches, backings, and formats ensures smooth communication and flawless results.
This Glossary of Digitizing and Patches Embroidery bridges the gap between creativity and production—helping designers, customers, and machine operators speak the same language.
Remember: Great embroidery starts long before the first stitch—it starts with clear communication, accurate digitizing, and a shared understanding of the craft.
